The Top of The World Highway is NOT For Sissies

Okay, it is a once in a lifetime drive.

Okay, you can live through it. 

Okay, it takes 4+- hours to drive some 108 miles. 

Okay, we only had minor upsets in the rig. 

Okay, a stiff drink in Chicken brought me back to earth and blood pressure down.

And we thought the Dempster was bad. Ha, little do we know.

  

That said. We survived. Would we recommend it? Of course. You simply cannot get this sort of experience via books, articles, pictures, or talking to folks. DO IT, but: give yourself lots and lots and lots of time. Don't hurry and don't take a new big expensive RV.

First things first, we had to get ferried across the Yukon river. It is a free ferry but we read there could be as much as a 3 hour wait. That said, we got up early and to the ferry by 7:30 am. Only a couple cars and one bus in line so we planned it right. By 8am we were on the other side and headed towards yet another adventure.

This is the bus that was in line ahead of us. We're next and only a 15-20 minute wait.

We arrived on the other side of the Yukon River and we look UP to see the Top Of The World Highway heading west, up and down mountains on a mostly pot-holed, washing board, dirt and gravel road for 108 miles.

Rest stop shortly after entering the highway. There is a similar sign welcoming you as you enter Dawson on the other side. This one thanks you for visiting.
This is also where we saw these plaques regarding the caribou herds.

Plaque goes on to say, "It was a very exciting time when every conversation included stories about sternboats and caribou. Oldtimers say that caribou were often a navigational hazard to boats. sometimes, boats had to stop for several hours during the July crossing to allow large groups of migrating caribou to pass. In 1927, a river boat captain encountered a traveling herd that took 10 days to cross the Yukon River. During the fall migration of 1920, the pioneer Alaskan biologist Olaus Murie estimated the herd at 568,000 as they traveled from their summer ranges near Fairbanks in a southeast direction towards Yukon."

The plaque tells how the Athapaskan (First Nations of the Yukon) hunted thousands of animals for their survival using all parts of the animal. Scars in the valleys leading to and from the river banks remain, left by the great herds as they climbed out of the water. Many family groups would gather for the hunt. Fences were also used by the hunters, constructed on uphill slopes, close to timber stands for camouflage.

Fortymile Herd marks a point on the migration route of the 500,000-strong caribou herd that used this corridor in the 1930s. With development of roads in the 1950s increased harvest together with natural predation and severe winters sent the population to a low of 6,500 animals in 1973. Recovery has been slow, but in 1990 the population was 23,000

Back to the perilous journey across the "Top of the World" Highway. 

So we start our trek from Dawson City, Yukon to Chicken, Alaska. We are talking 66 miles from Dawson to the border and another 45 or so miles into Chicken. None of which was good by any stretch of the imagination. That said, Kudos to the Canadians for attempting to maintain their end of the road. Canadian side of the Top Of The World Highway was 70% dirt and 30% paved, the US side didn’t even have gravel.Well, okay, maybe 10% gravel.

What a difference a country border makes - and not in a good way! While the Yukon side of the highway was in pretty good shape, with some paved areas, and fairly well-maintained roads.
- the American side was a huge mess! As soon as you pull away from the border crossing,
you hit washboard and potholes.

The gravel road deteriorated into a mine field of rocks and potholes. 

It was that way all the way to Chicken, sometimes slowing us to a walking pace.


The narrow, high altitude semi-surfaced road makes the most of every inch with sheer drop offs and hairpin turns. More than once we really do feel like we’re on top of the world.  I think it’s a man-thing: conquer the Top of the World Highway when you go to Alaska. No sane woman would take a vehicle, much less a fifth wheel on such a road! Maybe an ATV with helmet, knee & elbow pads and roll bars. What ever!!! I think every bone in our bodies rattled and I’m majorly surprised that every screw holding our rig together held up under that beating.

The dirt road more often than not turned into one lane. There also were no guard rails to stop us from going over a cliff or two so the view was “interesting” at times. But, we made it to Chicken in one piece (never a doubt with THE MASTER at the wheel. Been told by many a traveler that the roads in this "Last Frontier" never really do get much better. Yep, really looking forward to the rest of the trip.

This road just twists and winds and turns upward for as far as the eye can see. This photo shows where we had just come from.










Top of the World summit, 4,515 ft.

Views in all directions of mountains to the horizon. It really felt like you were on the top of the world.

Petro and Carl strolling on the Top

Above the tree line.

Back in the USA  It was a great feeling to be back in the US, despite the friendliness of Canadians.  Back where everything from money to food is a little more familiar.

Sign at the border and the guard told us there are two of them, doing a one month duty, than another two relieve them. He asked to see Petro's papers, if we had bought anything in Canada, where we are headed, did we have weapons, AND told me to sign my passport. Guess I forgot that!

Arrived in Chicken just in time for a cold beer and sandwich. Spent about an hour getting our wits about us and walking Petro. Poor dog was so car sick. We feel terrible having done this to him.

Downtown Chicken established in the late 1800s, when a major gold discovery was made on Chicken Creek. Population 20 in summer, 6 year round.

We even used the outhouse. Yep, they call it the chicken poop! Gotta love it.


In Chicken there is no electricity. They generate their own and turn it off around 7 each night. The gal who waited on us for lunch said she is a workamper, this is her 3rd year in Chicken. She loves it. She did say this is the first year they have had electricity to their rig and she is thrilled. Guess it is the gold mining keeps her coming back. Gold mining is still big around here with almost every inch of land claimed. No trespassing warnings are all over the place.

From Wikipedia

 In  Alaska, state mining claims may be up to 160 acres. The boundaries of the claim must follow the 4 cardinal directions, with an exception being adjustments for existing valid claims. "Claim jumping", which happens to this day, is a case where one person overstakes the claims of another. This results in civil action, and sometimes violence. Claims staked on Federal-managed lands fall under Federal rules. Typically, the claim size is limited to 660'x 1320', or 20 acres. The claim must be either placer or lode, and the discovery point must be clearly marked.

Everyone should visit Chicken at least once; enough said! 

Another 2 hours or so, on somewhat better roads (more like 40 mph with continuous dips, front heaves, construction, and so on) and we made it to Tok. First time on this trip that Carl was very sick and tired of driving. We barely made it to the campground and he was napping.

We did not plan to take in the free entertainment at the office lounge, but boy are we glad we did. One hour of great interactive music, story telling, history and laughs. Dave Stancliff is highly recommended by us if you want to relax and some fun. Even bought a couple of his CDs  http://www.alaskamusicartists.com/index.html
Now most of you know Carl is not prone to rhythm and music, but his foot was a tappin and he even sang along with "North to Alaska"

We did find out that Tok is one of the coldest places in Alaska. Reaching 50 below. Also the town has no government, and refuses to have any elected officials. Interesting huh? Also electricity only goes 10 miles out of town. Many folks still have no power at their cabins/homes and like it that way.