Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Day "whatever" ? Easy to loose track of time - Anyway north on the Richadson

This is Alaska - You have to see it yourself - 
Then catch your breath
Summit Lake and Gulkana Glacier 

After a couple wonderful days in Valdez we headed north up the Richardson Highway.
The Richardson Highway (originally called the Valdez gold rush trail) is Alaska's oldest highway, beginning as a gold rush trail to Eagle in 1898, upgraded to a wagon road in 1910 after the Fairbanks gold strike. It was made suitable for automobiles in the 1920's and was paved in 1957.


We were told by locals the road to Fairbanks is good. Well, in spots yes, in many spots not so good. Guess we should be used to it by now. Hoping to show by the white lines the dips in the road (pipeline in background).
Many areas in various stages of repair.

Passed lots of fishing folks and the real salmon season doesn't even begin for a couple more weeks. It seemed that every little creek had trucks and campers parked near by, some set up for extended days.

Drove about 150 miles to Sourdough Creek BLM (Bureau of Land Management) campground. Rustic (no elec, water, sewer, cell service, etc.) but only $5 a night with Carl's Federal lands senior pass. Nice hiking paths, busy boat launch on Sourdough Creek and lots of local campers since it was a Saturday. Went up the road a bit to the old Sourdough Roadhouse (actually the original burnt down in 92 so now a new building) with several original log buildings still in use from the early days of miners and railroad travelers. These roadhouses were also used as stopping points for mail delivery back in the day. We have and will visit many of these roadhouses as they all have stories to tell.


Loved the entry sign on Sourdough Roadhouse. Our waitress, from South Carolina, is spending her second summer up here. Last year they lived in a van, this year the owners got them a old camping trailer to stay in. This place is in the middle of no where, so go figure. Must be the fishing or gold panning that keeps these folks coming back.


As we paid our bill (for a beer and burger), I noticed this book for sale. Owner told me it was written by a local boy who grew up just down the road. Catchy title and picture, after reading a couple pages we decided it would be a nice memento of our travels to the great North. It is pictured on our picnic table with a couple relaxing glasses of amaretto. Great way to pass the never ending daylight hours. Cool evening so ran the furnace a bit and bundled up.

 Entrance to BLM campground @ Sourdough Creek

Our campsite at BLM. Secluded with picnic table and vegetation. Quiet too, almost too quiet.  


Moved on up the road to Delta Junction where we stayed 2 days at the Delta State Campground ($10 night).

Living in Alaska one has to have a sense of humor. We had to turn around so I could get this shot.

All along the highway we saw these reddish bunches in the trees. They are called "witches brew", a thick tangle of branches, twigs and needles in spruce trees, caused by a fungus. They were very plentiful and couldn't be missed.




At one of our potty breaks I picked these wild flowers. This time of year you see lots of them along the roads. A breath of fresh air for me.
 


time to stop for a pipeline viewing
FYI 

 Now the trip gets interesting. We had never heard of the Rainbow Ridge or Rainbow Mountain but WOW it is spectacular. Highly recommend a drive through it for everyone. On the Richardson Highway south of Delta Junction.

Mile Post states: "This 6,000 foot high ridge extends 8 miles. It is named for the varicolored talus slopes. The reds and greens are volcanic rock; the yellows and pastels are siltstone and sandstone. Our day was very cloudy so I can imagine how they may look on a clear day. My photos certainly do not do the beauty justice.


approaching the ridge from the south 











Closer

almost there


Right in the mist of things. Just too spectacular. Both our mouths were wide open. Had to pull off the side of road just to take it all in.

One last look














Passed Donnelly Dome where it is said the first snow on Donnelly Dome means snow in Delta Junction within 2 weeks.











When your journey becomes more important than your destination, when you find yourself sitting beside a campfire, and can't remember the day of the week. What's more, you don't even care. That is when you have arrived.

Relaxing with a rare dry moment at our state park campground site in Delta Junction. Peaceful, quiet, rustic, uncrowded, cell phone & minimal air card coverage and close to town. All for 10 bucks a night. We did use our generator and furnace a lot. The park is right next to a state fire station where we could watch the helicopter take off and land. Lots of great hiking and walking paths. Had the best steak sandwich I ever had at the local drive in. The local IGA was well stocked so we got the makings for chili to ward off the cold rain. Rented a couple movies from the local video store and generally relaxed. Took this time to read travel literature, maps, and tourist information. Petro loved the woods and squirrel watching.

Visited  Rikas Roadhouse  (state historical park) and






 Sullivans Roadhouse

which happens to be the oldest original roadhouse left in the interior of Alaska. Love stopping at these roadhouses and hearing their stories. Roadhouses were found along virtually every route that prospectors traveled on a regular basis. They popped up every 15-20 miles or so ranging from dugouts and dirty tents to 2-storey complexes, located in boomtowns to wilderness riversides.  I think these two roadhouses are the 8th or 9th we have stopped at so far on our trip. Each one different in appearance and story. The Sullivan is probably the most interesting so far, maybe since there was an elderly woman hosting who loved to talk (boy did she have some facts to share) as well as two photo albums to leaf through showing the dismantling and relocation.   

9 miles north of town (just past Rikas a bit) the pipeline crosses the Tanana River


A visit to the Delta Junction visitors center photo of "mile 1422 end of the Alaska Highway"






Yep, skeeters are big in Alaska and locals are darn proud of it.

 A must stop at the Knotty Shop. Spent an hour or so here just taking in the handy work of local artists. Not only wood work from "tree burls" but hand made pottery, bead work, clothing, antler art, paintings, ivory and jade, you name it. Beautiful art work, a little too expensive for our taste but inspiring never the less.
 


A little amaretto by firelight (actually guess it is still day light as it is almost 10 pm and no dark in sight for hours, or should I say days) Regardless, we started a bonfire and pretended it was dark and had a toast to our adventure. 

Next stop - North Pole and Fairbanks. 

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