North Pole and rest

 Sign at the Heritage Center in Fairbanks

This is what welcomed us when we arrived. Not sure which one is Donner or Blitzen, but told they are both here.

 

Huge, and I mean huge, statue of Santa as we drive into the park.

Then we spied the real Santa leaving the campground office. How exciting.

 

So Carl gave him a yell, and lo and behold he turned to give a great big North Pole wave.
I'm thinking this is gonna be a great stay for a few days. We arrived a few days prior to our reservations but they found a spot for us anyway. After a few days we moved to the back end of the park, away from the road traffic and looking at the woods and stream rather than other RVs.
The laundry is fantastic and affordable, wifi is free and fast, cable TV adequate, staff great, and close enough to Fairbanks we can see and do everything we want. Now all we need is our mail to catch up with us.

We start out with washing our rig at the free wash

 Petro waits patiently under the welcoming sign for us to get to our site. I think he is very much enjoying the sunshine and friendly folks.

the campsite at the back of the park with nature pretty much all around us. We actually put out our awning and got out the lawn chairs. Now I know we are going to be here for a while. Long deserved rest from traveling.

First full day here we washed the truck, did 3 loads of laundry and went into Fairbanks and scoped out the town. Stopped at the Riverboat cruise landing, Heritage Center, and drove through a couple other campgrounds to see what we were missing. Happy with our choice. Another lucky draw.  Since the weather was finally nice (sunny and mid 70s) we gave Petro his much needed bath and brushing. Wow, a whole different dog. Carl had to dig out his sandals and shorts, now that is a joy. Packed away the winter jackets (hope it is not too soon) , but not the rain gear.

 We took the Riverboat Discovery tour (suggested by our friends George & Jeannie who did it a couple years ago) using our 2-4-1 coupon from the tour saver book. It was a lovely, mostly sunny day and well worth the fee.

Again, there was us and about 300 of our new friends on the boat as depicted in this photo of the more than 14 tour buses in the parking lot.

Very interesting and informative. Plenty of room and smooth.

Saw float plane take off and land, with the pilot telling us via speaker his history and experiences flying in Alaska.

The boat stops on the river by the home and kennels of the late Iditarod  (follow the above link to the last great race on earth) 
champion Susan Butcher.
Susan's husband Dave, shares stories of the trails and tells about kennel life. He demonstrated a training run, (told they train their dogs daily, winter and summer, as the dogs instinctively want to run and pull, it is bread into them).Susan and her husband ran in and won almost every major dog sled race worldwide. A four time winner of the Iditarod, the 1,036 mile yearly dog race starting near Wasilla and ending near Nome. The race, unbelievably, is covered in about ten days! Susan won in 1986, 1987, 1988, and 1990.  Prior to the introduction of the snowmobile in the 60s, sled dog teams were the main form of transportation during winter in this part of the country. Dogs were worth lots and lots of money and held in high esteem.

After the run around the small lake the dogs take a nice dip in the river.

Below the rest of the dogs watch impatiently for their turn to pull and run. This was all fascinating giving us a good sense of sled dog care and racing.

 A few miles downriver, the Chena emptied into the Tanana River, a glacial river. Where the two rivers met was most interesting. The Chena is pretty clear, while the Tanana is filled with silt from the glacier and is milky (or almost muddy white) in color. Where they met was a dramatic line showing the difference.Years and years of glacier ice smashing up against rock has caused the water to have a powdery milky look as the constant rock collision has broken off pieces of rock and ground it into silt.

 










And now, the Pièce de résistance, the Native Athabaskan Alaskan fishing village. The fish camp is an example of the summer home for Interior Athabaskan Indians who practice a subsistence lifestyle. Fish camp is also where family elders work side by side with younger generations, passing down their history and culture. It is at the fish camp that they catch fish to feed their dogs and themselves throughout the winter. 

Told this hand made original parka would sell for about $60,000

We had several young native people as guides telling of their experiences at fish camp and their life style. They modeled and explained the significance of various clothing and accessories,
 

demonstrated how snow shoes, canoes and baskets were made

Surprisingly, we discovered the native people have never lived in ice houses (igloos) but often have lived in dome structures lined and covered with caribou or moose hide which provided warmth and dryness year round. 

as well as how they clean, smoke and prepare different fish. Entire extended families would spend the summer months at "fish camp" preparing for the winters provisions. The teenage guides we had said they have enjoyed it as they get to spend time with their aunts, uncles and cousins whom they rarely got see other times.  

Now this a smoker!   We couldn't help but think what the Wortleys' a big fishing family back in Michigan, would think of this one.

This fishing wheel, which only the Native Alaskans are allowed to use, and only at specific times of year, is mainly used for chum salmon which is processed by the natives as sled dog food. As you can see, it is similar to a water wheel. Fish swim into it, are scooped into the baskets and delivered into holding tanks. The fish wheel baskets are kept turning by the thrust of the river current. The rotating baskets comes up under the fish and scoops the fish out of the water  sliding into an angled trough and into the holding box.

Carl's new ride on display at the village 
 

 As the sign says, it is a 1963 restored. I kind of remember these from when I was a kid.

All in all, this was a super duper tour. We sure learned a lot, enjoyed ourselves immensely and would recommend it to all.



On the return trip, to port, complementary smoked salmon dip was served and I just could not resist offering a few tricks for better dip learned from years of making dip while Carl was catching and smoking salmon when we lived along Lake Huron in MI. Sorry, but theirs just didn't hold a candle to ours. Pretty bland stuff actually. Seems some folks liked it as they were selling it by cans and taking advance orders for this years catch. Hey, each to their own.

What a simply wonderful day. We were simply giddy with relaxation and happiness.

But wait, it's not over yet. More to come. 

Returned to the camp, had a toddy, dinner, and nap for Carl when  

what to our wondering eyes should appear:

a vintage car caravan. 

Seems the Fairbanks vintage car club has several North Pole members and they occasionally tour North Pole and Santaland RV. Imagine that, and all while we are staying here.

FOR YOUR VIEWING PLEASURE HERE ARE A FEW 

 

By the way, having not heard the term Eskimo since we arrived, I began to wonder. Where are all the Eskimos that are suppose to live in Alaska? Seems Eskimo is another name for Inuit which is the preferred name now. We continue to see and hear about the Athabaskan people. So, where do they fit in to the big picture. It is sort of my understanding that Athabaskan people mostly live in and come from the central Alaska area and Inuit mostly live in and come from the north, closer to the Arctic Circle.  I will do more research and let you know.

SOON WE WILL BE PANNING FOR GOLD!!

Day "whatever" ? Easy to loose track of time - Anyway north on the Richadson

This is Alaska - You have to see it yourself - 

Then catch your breath

Summit Lake and Gulkana Glacier 

After a couple wonderful days in Valdez we headed north up the Richardson Highway.
The Richardson Highway (originally called the Valdez gold rush trail) is Alaska's oldest highway, beginning as a gold rush trail to Eagle in 1898, upgraded to a wagon road in 1910 after the Fairbanks gold strike. It was made suitable for automobiles in the 1920's and was paved in 1957.

We were told by locals the road to Fairbanks is good. Well, in spots yes, in many spots not so good. Guess we should be used to it by now. Hoping to show by the white lines the dips in the road (pipeline in background).

Many areas in various stages of repair.

Passed lots of fishing folks and the real salmon season doesn't even begin for a couple more weeks. It seemed that every little creek had trucks and campers parked near by, some set up for extended days.

Drove about 150 miles to Sourdough Creek BLM (Bureau of Land Management) campground. Rustic (no elec, water, sewer, cell service, etc.) but only $5 a night with Carl's Federal lands senior pass. Nice hiking paths, busy boat launch on Sourdough Creek and lots of local campers since it was a Saturday. Went up the road a bit to the old Sourdough Roadhouse (actually the original burnt down in 92 so now a new building) with several original log buildings still in use from the early days of miners and railroad travelers. These roadhouses were also used as stopping points for mail delivery back in the day. We have and will visit many of these roadhouses as they all have stories to tell.

Loved the entry sign on Sourdough Roadhouse. Our waitress, from South Carolina, is spending her second summer up here. Last year they lived in a van, this year the owners got them a old camping trailer to stay in. This place is in the middle of no where, so go figure. Must be the fishing or gold panning that keeps these folks coming back.

As we paid our bill (for a beer and burger), I noticed this book for sale. Owner told me it was written by a local boy who grew up just down the road. Catchy title and picture, after reading a couple pages we decided it would be a nice memento of our travels to the great North. It is pictured on our picnic table with a couple relaxing glasses of amaretto. Great way to pass the never ending daylight hours. Cool evening so ran the furnace a bit and bundled up.

 Entrance to BLM campground @ Sourdough Creek

Our campsite at BLM. Secluded with picnic table and vegetation. Quiet too, almost too quiet.  

Moved on up the road to Delta Junction where we stayed 2 days at the Delta State Campground ($10 night).

Living in Alaska one has to have a sense of humor. We had to turn around so I could get this shot.

All along the highway we saw these reddish bunches in the trees. They are called "witches brew", a thick tangle of branches, twigs and needles in spruce trees, caused by a fungus. They were very plentiful and couldn't be missed.

A

At one of our potty breaks I picked these wild flowers. This time of year you see lots of them along the roads. A breath of fresh air for me.

 

time to stop for a pipeline viewing

FYI 

 Now the trip gets interesting. We had never heard of the Rainbow Ridge or Rainbow Mountain but WOW it is spectacular. Highly recommend a drive through it for everyone. On the Richardson Highway south of Delta Junction.

Mile Post states: "This 6,000 foot high ridge extends 8 miles. It is named for the varicolored talus slopes. The reds and greens are volcanic rock; the yellows and pastels are siltstone and sandstone. Our day was very cloudy so I can imagine how they may look on a clear day. My photos certainly do not do the beauty justice.

approaching the ridge from the south 

Closer

almost there

Right in the mist of things. Just too spectacular. Both our mouths were wide open. Had to pull off the side of road just to take it all in.

One last look

Passed Donnelly Dome where it is said the first snow on Donnelly Dome means snow in Delta Junction within 2 weeks.

When your journey becomes more important than your destination, when you find yourself sitting beside a campfire, and can't remember the day of the week. What's more, you don't even care. That is when you have arrived.

Relaxing with a rare dry moment at our state park campground site in Delta Junction. Peaceful, quiet, rustic, uncrowded, cell phone & minimal air card coverage and close to town. All for 10 bucks a night. We did use our generator and furnace a lot. The park is right next to a state fire station where we could watch the helicopter take off and land. Lots of great hiking and walking paths. Had the best steak sandwich I ever had at the local drive in. The local IGA was well stocked so we got the makings for chili to ward off the cold rain. Rented a couple movies from the local video store and generally relaxed. Took this time to read travel literature, maps, and tourist information. Petro loved the woods and squirrel watching.

Visited  Rikas Roadhouse  (state historical park) and






 Sullivans Roadhouse

which happens to be the oldest original roadhouse left in the interior of Alaska. Love stopping at these roadhouses and hearing their stories. Roadhouses were found along virtually every route that prospectors traveled on a regular basis. They popped up every 15-20 miles or so ranging from dugouts and dirty tents to 2-storey complexes, located in boomtowns to wilderness riversides.  I think these two roadhouses are the 8th or 9th we have stopped at so far on our trip. Each one different in appearance and story. The Sullivan is probably the most interesting so far, maybe since there was an elderly woman hosting who loved to talk (boy did she have some facts to share) as well as two photo albums to leaf through showing the dismantling and relocation.   

9 miles north of town (just past Rikas a bit) the pipeline crosses the Tanana River

A visit to the Delta Junction visitors center photo of "mile 1422 end of the Alaska Highway"

Yep, skeeters are big in Alaska and locals are darn proud of it.

 A must stop at the Knotty Shop. Spent an hour or so here just taking in the handy work of local artists. Not only wood work from "tree burls" but hand made pottery, bead work, clothing, antler art, paintings, ivory and jade, you name it. Beautiful art work, a little too expensive for our taste but inspiring never the less.

 

A little amaretto by firelight (actually guess it is still day light as it is almost 10 pm and no dark in sight for hours, or should I say days) Regardless, we started a bonfire and pretended it was dark and had a toast to our adventure. 

Next stop - North Pole and Fairbanks.